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Originally Posted By JDC_VA_USMC: Still doesn't want to move up and off. Am I missing screws under the latch assembly area? I only got the cover off/screws removed from the lower pull handle, but can't get the cover off of the latch area.
Door Latch Problems of Ford Expedition - part 1. The handle finally detached from the door and cannot be bolted back. Ford stated that there were no recalls. Was able to insert a screw driver between the driver's side door handle module and the outer wall of the door and remove the handle module and open the door and steal various items.
That seems to be where it's hung up, but the plastic cover doesn't seem to pop off to reveal any screws. Gotta run to Annapolis for the Navy game, I'll give it another shot tomorrow AM. You have to pop off the plastic piece that has the window switch, a screw (maybe a small bolt 5.5 mm?) Go Army. Originally Posted By JDC_VA_USMC: Still doesn't want to move up and off. Am I missing screws under the latch assembly area? I only got the cover off/screws removed from the lower pull handle, but can't get the cover off of the latch area. That seems to be where it's hung up, but the plastic cover doesn't seem to pop off to reveal any screws.
Tamil 3gpmovies tamil. Gotta run to Annapolis for the Navy game, I'll give it another shot tomorrow AM. You have to pop off the plastic piece that has the window switch, a screw (maybe a small bolt 5.5 mm?) Go Army Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile. O.K., so I got the panel off and somehow got the window working again without replacing anything, but I have some questions. I had power at the motor, so I figured the motor was shot. I did a quick ohm reading over the leads to the motor, and got continuity. So, I figured the motor was shot. When I took the motor out of the door, and hooked it back up to power just for kicks, and it worked!
So, I manually made sure the window moved up and down freely, put it all back together, and now it works no problem. I understand that there could have been something that I freed up to make it work again, but why am I getting continuity across the leads to the motor? I expected to get like 5 ohms or something across the motor. What am I missing? Also, in the 15 minutes or so that I was working on this with my truck ignition on but not running (radio on for some entertainment), my voltage went from 13 V to around 11.5, so I started my truck when I noticed it and it almost didn't start. Battery is OEM and 5 years old, so I'm guessing I need a new battery soon, especially with winter coming up. Any recommendations?
JDC ETA: O.K., I guess I'm having a brain fart, but I'm guessing I should get continuity over a motor if the windings are good, and the resistance comes from the load of the actual spinning motor when it has the proper voltage.